Happy with my purhase
I am a massive home automation enthusiast. I have replaced all but one of my ground floor light switches with these, and plan to replace all the first floor switches with more of the same in the near future. I chose them because installation is extremely simple (they directly replace existing wall switches using the existing mains wiring), I was planning to invest in some LightwaveRF relays (and wanted to keep the number of different proprietary technologies in my home to a minimum) and they're cheaper than the alternatives.
For the more advanced among you, you might like to invest in an RFXtrx433E USB transceiver, which would allow you to use a PC/Raspberry Pi instead, running EventGhost, Domoticz or similar home automation software.
It is important to note that, as well as there being different colour options, there are also three completely different types of LightwaveRF wall switch that all look the same: The dimmer, the slave and the wireless switch. If you have a light fitting controlled by a single switch that you want to be able to control via other LightwaveRF products (including the link), you need a dimmer. If you have a single light fitting controlled by two separate switches (i.e. a 2-way configuration/landing light), you need a dimmer and a slave. The wireless switch is basically just a remote control for whatever LightwaveRF device you pair it with. You could slap one on the wall in a different location, paired with a dimmer, to provide a 'sort of' two way configuration if you wanted to.
It is also important to note that LightwaveRF dimmers only receive signals from the link/wireless switches/remotes. They do not send. The LightwaveRF app will therefore not give you any indication of the status of the dimmers. The link cannot 'query' the status of the lights, unlike Philips Hue.
A word of warning: I had to replace one of my dimmers, which was wired in to the light fitting nearest the kitchen. In the kitchen, I had an old fluorescent tube. When I flicked off the fluorescent tube, the ballast discharged and sent a voltage/current spike through the lighting ring to the next nearest switch, which happened to be the LightwaveRF dimmer. Apparently this was enough to fry it. I didn't realise this was the cause at first, so just swapped it over. Then the same thing happened to the replacement. I did some reading and found that the fluorescent tube in the kitchen was the likely culprit. I have since replaced the tube with a 6 x GU10 LED light fixture and another LightwaveRF dimmer and have not had any more problems. I read that you can protect yourself against this by fitting something called a 'snubber'/contact suppressor between the live/switched live poles on the normal lightswitch that's attached to the fluorescent tube. I do still have a fluorescent tube and a normal light switch in my garage, so I bought one and installed it in the aforementioned manner, just in case.
This leads me neatly on to the subject of dimming. LEDs and CFL bulbs (energy savers) don't like being dimmed. There are many LEDs and CFLs that are advertised as being dimmable, but you will likely experience one of the following: The bulbs will hum, or they will only dim down as far as about 75% brightness until you get all the way down to the lowest output level on the dimmer switch, at which point they will just turn off. I bought LED GU10 bulbs for the new kitchen light fixture and experienced both problems. I couldn't use ordinary filament/halogen bulbs, as the combined wattage of all six bulbs exceeded the 250w rating of the dimmer, so I went for LED. I did some more reading and found that (surprise, surprise), the LED bulbs made by Megaman (same company as LightwaveRF) gave much better results. I can tell you that this is indeed the case.
Before I bought these dimmers, I had already invested in an array of other home automation products from various manufacturers, each with their own proprietary standards. It is indeed possible to integrate these dimmers into an existing home automation setup and make everything work together harmoniously, but it does require some know-how (and either a PC, Raspberry Pi or an Android phone). Happy to provide more advice to anyone who needs it.
One last thing - be aware that the back boxes that are sunk into your internal walls/stud work (the things your existing light switches are screwed to) may not be deep enough to accommodate the electronic component housing on the rear of these dimmers that you need to insert into that space, along with the wiring itself. You may need to purchase some back box spacers. Unfortunately this means the dimmer won't be flush with the wall, but you won't find a more slimline solution and it may be very difficult to replace your existing back boxes or somehow sink them further into the wall.