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Z-Wave vs Z-Wave Plus: Complete Smart Home Protocol Guide

Z-WaveLast reviewed
Z-Wave vs Z-Wave Plus: Complete Smart Home Protocol Guide

In short: Z-Wave is a wireless language made only for smart homes. It uses a low radio frequency that passes through walls well and never competes with Wi-Fi. Any certified device will join any certified controller made for the same region, and its standard functions will work.

Who this guide is for

  • You're deciding whether Z-Wave is right for your home.
  • You want to know what "Z-Wave Plus", "800 Series" and "Long Range" on a product page mean.
  • You're planning a network and want it to be reliable from day one.

This guide describes the 868 MHz version of Z-Wave used in the UK and Europe. Devices made for other regions, such as North America, use different frequencies.

What is Z-Wave?

Z-Wave has been used in homes for over 20 years. Devices send short, low-power messages to a central controller, and each message is acknowledged. When you turn a light off, the controller knows it actually went off.

Three things set it apart:

  • It stays out of the way of Wi-Fi. Z-Wave uses a frequency below 1 GHz, well away from Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and the 2.4 GHz band that Zigbee devices use.
  • It gets through walls. Lower frequencies travel through brick and floors better than 2.4 GHz signals.
  • Everything is certified. A device can't carry the Z-Wave logo unless it passes certification, so brands mix freely on one network.

There are no fees or subscriptions for using Z-Wave.

The one rule: match the region

Z-Wave uses a different frequency in each part of the world.

Region Frequency
UK and Europe 868.42 MHz
USA and Canada 908.42 MHz
Australia and New Zealand 921.42 MHz

A device and a controller from different regions cannot hear each other, and a device's region can't be changed. Buy devices made for where you live. Our product pages show the Z-Wave Region for every Z-Wave product.

How does Z-Wave work?

A Z-Wave network is run by one controller (your hub or USB stick). It can hold up to 232 devices including the controller.

  • Mains-powered devices such as plugs, in-wall modules and wall switches are always listening. They repeat messages for other devices.
  • Battery devices such as sensors and remotes sleep to save power. They wake to report and don't repeat messages.

If a device is out of direct reach of the controller, its messages hop through mains-powered devices on the way. Silicon Labs, which makes the Z-Wave chips, quotes 400 metres of range over four hops. If one route fails, the network tries another.

A Z-Wave mesh network in a house A two-storey house. The hub is in the living room. Mains-powered devices (a plug in the kitchen, a dimmer in the bedroom and a switch in the office) link to the hub and to each other. Battery sensors each connect to the nearest mains-powered device. BEDROOM OFFICE LIVING ROOM KITCHEN Hub Dimmer Switch Plug Motion sensor Temperature Leak sensor Door sensor Hub (controller) Mains-powered: repeats messages Battery-powered
Mains-powered devices repeat messages, so a sensor out of the hub's direct reach still gets through.

Z-Wave vs Z-Wave Plus: what's the difference?

Z-Wave has improved in steps, and each step has its own label. Every step is backwards compatible, so new devices join older controllers and the other way round. You get the newer benefits when both ends support them.

What is Z-Wave Plus?

Z-Wave Plus is the certification for devices built on the 500 series chip. Compared with original Z-Wave it brought longer range, around 50% better battery life, more reliable self-healing of the mesh and a standard way to update device firmware over the air. For years it was the label to look for, and a great many Z-Wave Plus devices are still on sale and work well.

What is Z-Wave Plus V2?

Z-Wave Plus V2 is the current certification, for devices built on the 700 and 800 series chips. Range and battery life improve again, and two features that used to be optional are now required on every device: S2 security and SmartStart set-up.

The labels at a glance

Label What it means
Z-Wave Plus Built on the 500 series chip. Better range and battery life than original Z-Wave, and firmware updates over the air.
Z-Wave Plus V2 Built on the 700 or 800 series chip. Longer range, lower power use, and S2 security and SmartStart as standard.
Z-Wave 800 Series The current chip generation. Not a new version of Z-Wave, but the best range and battery life so far.
Z-Wave Long Range An extra mode on some current-generation devices. In the UK and Europe these are 800 series devices. See below.

One product can carry three of these at once. A device shown as "Z-Wave Plus V2, Z-Wave 800 Series, Z-Wave Long Range" is simply a current-generation device that also supports Long Range.

S2 security and SmartStart

S2 is Z-Wave's current security standard. Each device has its own key, printed as a QR code and a number on the device or its box. You scan or type it when adding the device, which stops anyone nearby intercepting the set-up.

SmartStart uses the same QR code to save time. Scan the code in your controller's app, then power the device on. It joins by itself. Installers can scan a whole job in advance and let the devices join as they are fitted.

Keep the QR code or the key somewhere safe. You'll need it if you ever move the device to a new controller.

Z-Wave Long Range

Long Range works differently from the mesh. A Long Range device talks directly to the controller, with no hops, over a much greater distance. Manufacturers quote several hundred metres in open air. A Long Range network can hold up to 4,000 devices.

Z-Wave mesh compared with Z-Wave Long Range Inside the house, a door sensor reaches the hub by hopping through a mains-powered plug. Outside, a gate sensor in the garden and a sensor in the garage use Long Range to talk straight to the hub with no hops. HOUSE GARAGE GARDEN Hub Plug Door sensor Gate sensor Garage sensor Straight to the hub, no hops Mesh: messages hop between devices Long Range: direct to the hub
In the mesh, the door sensor reaches the hub through a mains-powered plug. With Long Range, the gate and garage sensors talk straight to the hub.

It arrived in North America first. The European version followed and uses its own channels close to the normal 868 MHz band. Certified UK and European Long Range devices are available.

Three things to know:

  • In the UK and Europe you need an 800 series Long Range device and a controller that supports Long Range in this region. Check both product pages.
  • A Long Range device can also join as a normal mesh device. You choose when you add it.
  • Long Range and normal Z-Wave devices sit side by side on the same controller.

It suits outbuildings, gardens, gates and large properties where a mesh would need many repeaters.

What devices use Z-Wave?

There are thousands of certified Z-Wave products. The main types are:

Z-Wave is especially strong on in-wall modules, heating controls and anything that has to work through solid walls.

Do I need a hub for Z-Wave?

Yes. A Z-Wave controller (also called a hub or gateway) runs the network, stores your automations and connects everything to your phone. A complete system needs three things:

  1. A controller with a Z-Wave radio for your regionHubitat, Homey Pro and Fibaro Home Center have one built in. Home Assistant uses a Z-Wave USB stick. Not every hub has Z-Wave, so check before you buy. See Choosing a smart home controller.
  2. A few mains-powered devicesSpread plugs or in-wall modules through the house to form the mesh.
  3. Your sensors and remotesAdd these last, in the places they will be used.

Adding and removing devices

Adding a device to a Z-Wave network is called inclusion. Removing it is exclusion.

  • Start inclusion in your controller's app, then press the button on the device (often once or three times; the manual says which). With SmartStart, scan the QR code instead.
  • A device can only belong to one network. If it won't join, it may still belong to another one. Run exclusion on it first. Any controller can exclude any device.
  • Add mains-powered devices in their final position where you can, so the controller learns the right routes.
  • After adding or moving several devices, run your controller's network repair or rebuild if it has one.

A full walk-through is in Adding and removing devices.

Associations, groups and scenes

These three terms come up in manuals and controller apps.

  • Association. A direct link between two devices. A motion sensor associated with a switch can turn it on without going through the controller. It's fast and keeps working if the controller is offline, but it only does simple on, off and dim commands.
  • Association group. The slots a device offers for these links. A two-button wall controller typically has a group per button. Group 1 is usually the "lifeline" back to the controller and should be left alone.
  • Scene. Set up in the controller. One trigger sends different commands to different devices: lights to 30%, blinds down, heating up a degree.
A Z-Wave association compared with a scene On the left, an association: a wall controller sends commands straight to a dimmer and the hub is not involved. On the right, a scene: the wall controller tells the hub, and the hub sends different commands to the lights, the blinds and the heating. ASSOCIATION SCENE Direct link Wall controller Dimmer Hub The hub is not involved Wall controller Hub Lights to 30% Blinds down Heating up The hub sends a different command to each device
An association links two devices directly. A scene goes through the hub, which can send different commands to several devices.

For most homes, build automations in the controller. They are easier to change and can use conditions such as time of day. Use associations where speed or independence from the controller matters, such as a wall controller driving a dimmer in the same room.

Range and reliability

Indoors, expect a reliable 20 to 30 metres between devices, less through thick stone, concrete or foil-backed insulation. 700 and 800 series devices do noticeably better than older ones.

  • Place the controller centrally and off the floor, not in a metal cabinet.
  • Make sure every battery device has a mains-powered device within easy reach.
  • If a far corner is weak, add a plug or a range extender halfway.
  • On a USB stick, use a short USB extension lead to move it clear of the computer.

More in Building a reliable network.

Z-Wave, Zigbee or Matter?

  • Z-Wave is strong on in-wall modules, heating and anything that must work through solid walls. Devices are region-specific.
  • Zigbee has the widest choice of low-cost sensors, plugs and lighting, on one worldwide frequency.
  • Matter lets devices work across Apple, Google, Amazon and SmartThings. Some controllers can share their Z-Wave devices with Matter systems.

You don't have to pick one. Most controllers run Z-Wave alongside the others. See Z-Wave vs Zigbee vs Matter and Zigbee explained.

Common questions

Will new devices work with my older controller?
Yes. Z-Wave is backwards compatible. A Plus V2 device on a Z-Wave Plus controller works, but without the newer features that need both ends.

Do I need to replace old devices?
No. If the network works well, leave it. Buy current-generation devices when you add or replace.

Can voice assistants control Z-Wave devices?
Yes, through the controller. Link the controller to Alexa or Google Assistant and its devices appear there. Siri and Apple Home support varies by controller, so check your platform.

Does Z-Wave need the internet?
No. The radio network is entirely in your home. Whether automations keep running offline depends on the controller.

What you'll need